It was only recently that I'd seen a passing mention of it on Chowhound.com's Mexico Forum. Then some Googling turned up a few more references to it, notably a glowing article in El Economista. That, plus a very positive response in an email from our friend, "Mija" Lesley Tellez was enough to convince me to eat there.
We made plans to meet friends and have a late breakfast there. It was a short walk from their house.
I was expecting a drab hole-in-the wall, but what I found was an attractive restaurant with two levels of dining rooms, and perky waitresses clad in "Scottish" uniforms. There are some attractive displays of food along a long counter.
We stayed firmly in the non-innards part of the menu. Sr. Paco and I started with bowls of rich consomé de barbacoa. It was perhaps the best I've had anywhere. He and I split a 1/4 kilo of barbacoa. It was tasty but somewhat fatty. The presentation was very attractively rustic.
|The charred penca de maguey holds the barbacoa|
|Mixiote de pollo|
This was a wonderful, balanced dish without being excessively picante.
That reminds me to mention the three wonderful salsas. I tried the rich, smoky dark one and the verde. I enjoyed them both. I think the salsa amarilla is the most picante.
Sra. Cuevas was avoiding spices, and had a Plato Hidalguense. This was queso panela, avocado, tomato slices, a beautiful ensalada de nopales, accompanied by branches of papaloquelite.
All was accompanied by excellent tortillas de maíz azul hechas a mano.
El Hidalguense is definitely worth further visits in order to try its regional specialties.
There's a story behind how all the hard work is done, and it's explained in the El Economista article. (In Spanish.)
Service: **** 1/2
Price: $-$$ (Our average was $131 pesos per person, and that included 2 cervezas, 1 agua mineral, a pulque curado con tunas-click for picture, 2 cafes de olla, and the tip. Your cuenta may vary, especially if you order escamoles or chinicuiles.)
Noise level: moderately loud.
Rest Rooms: we didn't use the facilities.
HOURS: (pay careful attention!) Only Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays, 7 a.m. to 6 p.m. Open major holidays.
Tel: 55 640538
Cel: (045) 775 752 5606
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